Last October, my wife and I decided to book a weekend trip to Rome. An old friend from back in her basketball days in Brazil was doing a Europe trip with her fiancée and best friend, and Rome happened to be a perfect middle ground. To get there, I flew from Lyon to Rome, buying my ticket one way (for a total of 24 euro- you can too via Omio), and my wife (then girlfriend) took a train, booking her tickets via Trainline. I could have gone with her, meeting her in Switzerland and making the trip together, but while my trip only took an hour, hers took over 9 hours.
It is quite easy to navigate the Rome airport, you just follow the signs with a train on them to a train station that only goes one way – to the city center. You can scan your debit card right on the payment terminal and hop on the next train waiting to leave. It is a short half hour ride before you find yourself in the center train station, and this part may feel more chaotic. People bustle by you, weaving in front and behind you, as over 30 train platforms line up one after the other with tons of random destinations. Ananda, my then-girlfriend, met me there. I anxiously waited for her to arrive and together we found our bus that would take us to our Airbnb.
First miss – we wanted to cut corners. Instead of paying for a more expensive hotel or Airbnb in the center, we booked a place about 25 minutes out of the center. It isn’t a big deal in itself, but getting to the location, at night, as two women, didn’t feel like the best plan. We walked down and under a bridge, passing shadowy strangers, and held tight to our GPS, trying to find our place to stay. After finding the right building and turning over all the flower pots to find the keys to the place, we were finally able to settle in for our first night. To get to the city center, we had two bus options that were quite quick. That being said, Italy is known for chaotic drivers and bus drivers are no exception. Hold on tight.
I have to be honest. I planned on proposing to Ananda in Rome, during this trip. She was completely oblivious to this, and I had been planning the whole thing secretly for months. I initially planned for a romantic picnic basket proposal in one of Rome’s most beautiful gardens. An agency was going to lay out a gorgeous setup, with organic snacks and champagne, and I would pop the question on the grass next to my favourite person. But that idea fell through. Here was the mood board for that proposal :
Only one problem with this plan – we were going in October an all of the companies that provide this service, cut off end of September. My plan had fallen through, and the most romantic thing I was planning in my entire life was dead. I needed a back up plan. My wife isn’t one for attention, she doesn’t like the spotlight on herself, especially for something personal. That being said, I needed a new plan that was hush-hush enough, but still a big and loving gesture. At this time in our relationship, we were planning on eventually moving to either Portugal or Spain. We had travelled to Spain only a few months before this trip, and I had been learning Portuguese for about 4 months at that point. I had found a restaurant in Rome, that has a Bib Michelin, owned by a lesbian couple who base their dishes around their experiences in Spain and Portugal.
First Hit – The restaurant 53 Untitled. In the heart of the city center of Rome, right off the path of stunning bridges and statues, you can find the quaint and comfortable restaurant owned by Cecilia and Mariangela. Together, they have shared their love through their food and have obtained a Bib Michelin. A Bib Michelin is a status that distinguishes good restaurants that offer a refined cuisine at an affordable price. In 53 Untitled, you will find Cecilia in the kitchen, creating dishes so gorgeous and tasty that you are left to question how she even made it possible. Up front, you can find Mariangela, who will tell you the story behind every bottle of wine she has in her restaurant. Trained in the art, she really has the know-how and tongue to guide you towards the right choice. The plan was to propose in this gorgeous restaurant, ran by another lesbian couple who also share a love for Portugal and Spain and a passion for gastronomy. I’ll come back to the experience in this restaurant.
Second Miss – A couple days before we left on our trip to Rome, Ananda brought up the discussion of marriage. Out of the blue, she shared that we might be a little crazy for going so fast, and that she only wanted to get engaged whenever we moved in with one another. I was shocked. I didn’t care so much about the whole preparation I had done, the main plan fell through anyways, but the fact that she had kinda changed her mind was quite a surprise. Nothing had changed between us, she just wanted to enjoy each step of our relationship with no rush. That being said, I went into the Rome trip with no stress, leaving her engagement ring that I had bought at home.
Back to 53 Untitled. We went on our first night in Rome. We had made a reservation in advance, and I advise you to do the same, as the restaurant has many six tables total, promising you an intimate experience. We opted for the Short Escape Menu, which is a four course meal at the price of 40 euro per person. We also requested a bottle of red wine to pair with our dishes, and were not disappointed. The servings aren’t too big, pushing you to really savour each bite of what is in front of you. If you are very hungry, I suggest you take the Chef’s Route, which is a six course meal for 68 euro per person. We were blown away by the pasta dish, which was the second to last dish that was served. When it came out, all we could see was a white napkin folded onto a white plate. Once you pull back the layers of the napkin, you find handmade pasta pockets scattered across the white background. The dish is to be eaten with your fingers, taking the little pasta pockets and dipping them in the white sauce that it comes with. The magic happens in the mouth – an explosion of flavours. From the outside, you see a dry pasta. Once you bite into the pasta though, you are met with a savoury, meaty tomato sauce, leaving you questioning how the liquid is contained inside of the pockets. If you ever come around to Rome – you must stop and have a meal here. Here is the link to check out the menu and get a table :
Second Hit – The next morning, we got dressed and ready to visit the Roman Forum. We opted out of going into the Colosseum, as October is apparently still high season for tourists, but also for weather. We were smart, and packed a bag full of water. If I could have you do one extra thing – it’s bring snacks. Pack your bag with something like nuts or dried fruits to keep you going. You will be walking a lot, and as you have a lot to take in, your eyes and body will get tired very quickly. Only go to the tourist attractions very early in the morning, or you will be tormented by the noise, the amount of people, and the sellers trying to propose to take your picture or sell you something. Buy your tickets in advance!!! Do not wait until you are at the gate and you don’t have your ticket, plus the line is longer. Buy in advance, have your QR code pulled up, and you will pass through like a breeze. Keep in mind of the season, Rome is in the south and quite hot until late October, so even if you are feeling chill in the morning, the afternoon will heat up and have you warm. Wear comfortable shoes, pack sunscreen and sunglasses, and prepare for a long day of sightseeing.
My wife and I like to take a lot of coffee breaks while we travel, we find it keeps us feeling full and energised, and now without it, we break down like old zombies by the early afternoon. Anyways, back on topic, the Roman Forum. This, for me, is a must-see. I would not say you need to get a guide, but do not visit this place without an extensive background history lesson. When you go – try to know and understand why the Forum was created, what it was used for, what kind of people could have passed through this space, and how it could have evolved over the years. If you go in blind, you’re not going to appreciate it as much. Personally, I did my background research beforehand, and then led Ananda through the Forum with stories and facts I had pulled up on my phone.
If you choose to visit the Colosseum, book the double pass and do both the same day – they are literally right in front of each other. We walked around the outside of the Colosseum once we finished with the Forum, and then made our way to a gay bar right down the street. Around the neighborhood, you can also find a gorgeous park to stroll through, calm and lovely streets away from the tourists, and other Roman monuments. You can easily pack a full day in this area, leaving the rest of your time open for the other attractions
Third miss – We made the mistake of visiting the Trevi fountain in the afternoon. I highly recommend going incredibly early in the morning, before anyone else, or make it a stop on your way back to the hotel in the evening. The entire day, tourists buzz in and out of this area, making it impossible to stroll casually through the streets. Restaurant workers will call you into their traps, selling off overpriced Aperol Spritz. Leave these locations for the morning, then maybe go out for a casual Italian breakfast or brunch before continuing your day.
Third Hit – If you’re looking for pasta – Osteria Da Fortunata. You have heard of it, or seen it. The ladies in white making pasta in the window of their restaurant all day, serving delicious fresh pasta dishes at noon and in the evening. Though it is very popular amongst tourists, it is very worth it. The prices are fair, the wine selection is dense and correct, and the pasta is divine. Here you will eat a full and delicious meal without breaking the bank. Personally, if I can trust the restaurant, I always get carbornara, and here it was a hit.
Fourth Hit – If you’re looking for pizza – La Prezzemolina. Now, when you go, do NOT judge a book by it’s cover. Here, all the pizzas are waiting for you. You make a selection of the slices you want, they weigh the total, and while you pay, the pizzas heat up in the oven until googy and delicious. The dough is thin and perfect, the ingredients are full of flavour and of quality, I could have eaten here for the rest of my life, for every meal. I would be so happy. But I had to leave 🙁
Rome is full of history, secrets and untold stories. Every corner you find something new to discover, every building fascade whispers out its story and as you walk along the cobblestone streets, you can only imagine the footsteps you are following in. I would stay for a total of four days, taking in the local cuisine, wine, history and culture. If you can make it a romantic trip, I highly recommend, and if not, make it a self love trip. Think Eat, Pray, Love. And please, let me know what you think of this crazy, beautiful, history-packed city.
All my love.
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